Solid Titanium Upright Bass Endpin Shaft (10mm)

Titanium is an excellent material for an endpin; very lightweight and stiff, it won't absorb (and damper) vibrations as easily as denser materials, and will instead allow them to vibrate freely. Upgrading an endpin to a more high-tech material like titanium (or carbon fiber - we sell those, too!) can be an easy, non-destructive means to improving the tone of your bass. Many bass luthiers will tell you that less mass is better when it comes to an endpin, and this one weighs less than 6 ounces (including the rubber end stopper!) so there you go. 

This high quality endpin assembly is attractive and sturdy; made of solid, high-quality titanium, it's finished in a "brushed" look so it's not super shiny like stainless steel. It has a sharp point at the bottom for the (rare, nowadays) opportunity to "stake into" the stage to couple with the floor - but as is common nowadays, it has a heavy-duty rubber cap which covers that point -- and it is threaded so it'll stay put.

This endpin is only offered in one size - 10mm - which happens to be the most common endpin size. That's right around 3/8", if you don't have a metric ruler handy. But yes, you do have to measure, and your existing endpin does have to be the same size so you don't damage the collar inside your bass.

The endpin shaft is 370mm long - that's about 14.5" - and again, is under 6 ounces, including the rubber tip.  The pin has machined ridges built into its profile so that your endpin adjuster thumbscrew can get a confident, non-slip hold on it.

If you want to get a full setup for a new install, or a complete endpin assembly replacement, we can also match this endpin with a hardwood endpin collar with brass fittings to make it into a set for you (see purchase options above). The collar's opening for the shaft is lined with cork for vibration-free use, and is, of course, the right size for the pin.

Professional installation is recommended for the full assembly set, but the endpin alone is a very easy swap out for almost any bass that has a 10mm opening. Just pull out the old one, and replace with this one.

Installation Considerations for the Endpin Collar (optional)

Almost all* bass makers use an endpin like this one - one that has a tapered collar that needs to be custom-fitted into the opening in your bass' endblock – so you’re likely going to have to use a specialized reamer tool (and a good deal of detailed and patient woodworking) to re-fit the hole to match the shape of the endpin collar.

While I regularly encourage the "DIY ethic," I usually recommend just getting this done by a competent luthier – this is one of those situations where it usually is cheaper (and more efficient) to have a luthier do it. They’ve got the experience to do it well and quickly without drama; and more financially important, they already own and have the necessary tools on hand in their workshop. While it will probably cost a couple hundred dollars to have the endpin installed by a pro, you'll pay much more than that for just the special tapered reamer that’s pretty much integral to doing the job.

So, unless you plan on doing several basses, investing in that tool – and the know-how to do the job – might cost more than it’s worth.

*(A notable exception is Kay/Engelhardt, who usually did a very unusual endpin arrangement, using a 3/4" straight hole for their plain, unfinished solid steel endpin mechanisms with the big 1/2" post.)